Adai at Dosa
Renegade on all fronts, adai are dosas made from chickpeas, rather than lentils. At Dosa, they’re rolled around paneer and watercress, served at room temperature, and accompanied by three chutneys. Avant-garde, yes—and also delicious. 995 Valencia St., S.F., 415-642-3672

Beef keema dosa at Junnoon
The addition of ground beef seasoned with tomato, cumin, and clove is unorthodox, as dosas are typically vegetarian. But my, oh my, does it work. 150 University Ave., Palo Alto, 650-329-9644

Masala dosa at Udupi Palace
A batter of ground and fermented lentils and rice, spread thin on a griddle, cooked until crisp, then stuffed with mustard seed–and-turmeric-spiced potatoes. This is the simple, superb standard by which all other dosas are judged. 1901 University Ave., Berkeley, 510-843-6600

Pesseret at Dasaprakash
Green mung beans take the place of pale urad dal (a type of lentil) to make a more robust dosa. The filling of slivered green chilies and ginger doesn’t hurt, either. 2636 Homestead RD., Santa Clara, 408-246-8292

Rava dosa at Woodlands
Lacy and shatterable like a potato chip, this delicate dosa has a secret indgredient: semo­lina flour. 39203 Cedar Blvd., Newark, 510-494-9727