Long considered insidery and exclusive, Hyde Street has stepped out of hiding. People from all over are flocking to this leafy enclave, and they aren’t just going for dinner: shops offering antiques, art, and couture are the latest lure. “The neighborhood has changed,” says gallery owner Mark Busacca. “Everything staying open late has helped the restaurants and shops mesh together. There’s a sense of community, and people know each other by name.” What visitors discover if they wander around a bit is that the pedestrian lanes, alleys, and steps also make this one of the city’s most intriguing places to walk.

Home to Mayor Newsom, among other big wheels, the hood has become a hot spot for enterprising 30-somethings buying up property. Bill Freeman, 37, who recently bought a house there, says, “It’s the most desirable place to live in the city. Pac Heights is too homogeneous; it’s the melting-pot feel that makes this place so wonderful.” Old and new money, a Chinese American contingent, and a sprinkling of young renters all contribute to the blend, but the unifying force is the magical ambience. Who doesn’t love trees strung with white lights, a little cable car chugging along, and a delicious variety of shops, eateries, and bars?

With the increase in traffic, though, parking is so competitive that fistfights have broken out. In front of Luella recently, when a driver lost out on a spot, he jumped out of his car, grabbed a bottle of wine from the people who scored the spot, and hurled it to the ground. Smart visitors take cabs to Hyde. But if you steer clear of the road ragers, Eden isn’t just for millionaires.

GRUB
Kids pack Luella on Sunday for Kids Night, when they nosh on potpie and grilled cheese. Other fans include the mayor and Mick Jagger, who goes for chicken under a brick. 1896 Hyde St.

If bigger means better, the supersized potstickers stuffed with cabbage, ginger, and pork at U Lee are the best in the city. 1468 Hyde St.

At Za Pizza, pies are named for painters, from Pesto Picasso to Vincent Van Dough. On weeknights, local girls pick up Monet’s Garden salads to go, while the boys swill ale at the bar. 1919 Hyde St.

A darling of the wine world, 1550 Hyde pulls people from all over the city with its list of 200-plus bottles and its creative flights. Residents without reservations order up lamb’s tongue at the six-seat bar. 1550 Hyde St.

HANGOUTS
The Nook somehow manages to be all things to all people: it’s a grab-a-coffee spot for workers heading downtown, an office for mobile workers taking advantage of the free wi-fi, a happy-hour hang, and a cozy place for a first date. 1500 Hyde St.

Since 1948, the original Swensen’s has churned cream on-site. There’s always a crowd lined up for a hot fudge sundae or lychee cone. 1999 Hyde St.

Open seven nights a week, intimate Bacchus pulls in a young, chatty crowd. The lucky ones cuddle in the leather love seats in the window, sipping sake cocktails and wines that can’t be found just anywhere. 1954 Hyde St.

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