There’s no shortage of North Coast towns left over from the lumber boom of the 19th century, when no one thought twice about building everything out of redwood. Downtown Gualala (drop the G; say “wah-LAH-lah”) lacks the cute-as-a-button architectural integrity of, say, nearby Elk, but as soon as you get a half mile from downtown, towering bluffs and thundering surf emerge in all their majestic splendor. And as the 1,912 down-to-earth locals—artists, real estate agents, and pot growers—will attest, you won’t find better weather north of the Golden Gate than along this south-facing belt of coastline just two and a half hours away. Here are five things to know about the coast’s best-kept secret.

1
With a little planning, you can check out Bowling Ball Beach, where row after row of giant rounded ink black boulders line the sand on seaweed-strewn rock alleys, with critter-packed tide pools in between. This is one of Northern California’s trippiest natural wonders, but you must come when the tide is lower than 1.5 feet on the tide table; otherwise, the boulders are under water and it’s just another beach. Park on Highway 1 at Mendocino County mile marker 11.41; there are two signs reading “Park Facing South.” Take the trail by the northernmost sign.
• To figure out when to visit Bowling Ball Beach, consult the tide tables for Arena Cove: http://co-ops.nos.noaa.gov.

2
Ever since Two Fish Baking Com­pany opened in Sea Ranch in 2003, folks have been lining up at 7 a.m. for sticky buns oozing with buttery caramel, cinnamon,
and walnuts. Even if you don’t arrive before they run out—which can happen as early as 8 a.m.—you’ll find something irresistible, from tea pastries to crusty artisanal breads. Sip lattes at one of a handful of tables inside or out, or lunch on sandwiches like wild tuna with tapenade on housemade kalamata olive bread. Bring your pooch: Two Fish also makes dog biscuits.
• 35590 Verdant View Dr. (take Annapolis drive east from Hwy 1 to Verdant view dr.), 707-785-2443. Wed.–Sat. 7 a.m.–3 p.m., sun. 7 a.m.–1:30 p.m.

3
Last year, members of the Stornetta clan sold to the public trust 1,132 acres of
stunning oceanfront land surrounding the Point Arena Lighthouse (the only tall one in California that you can climb to the top). Called Stornetta Public Lands, its vast grasslands give way to fingerlike peninsulas extending into the churning surf, forming sea caves. November through May, you’ll have a great view of gray whales offshore. One mile from Highway 1, down Lighthouse Road on the left side, there’s room for several cars to park by the break in the fence at the tiny brown and white Bureau of Land Management sign, the main access point. Better yet, pay the $5 per adult to park at the lighthouse, then climb the tower to scout your hike first (there are no designated trails: if you can see it, you can hike it). But tell the lighthouse folks your plans so they don’t lock the gate.
• For information on Stornetta Public Lands, call 707-468-4000.

4
Pangaea, a jewel box–like café in downtown Gualala, serves up earthy, robust cooking with boho spirit. The seasonally driven, mostly organic menu changes frequently, but expect staples like duck breast or hanger steak with dynamic Far Eastern and Central American spicing. On a chilly night, you can’t beat the soul-soothing warm wilted salad with beets, pancetta, and Big Woods Blue cheese, followed by a brined pork chop with zingy apple-ginger confit. Make a reservation—this is quickly becoming known as some of the best food on the North Coast.
• 39165 S. Highway 1, 707-884-9669, www.pangaeacafe.com. entrées $21–$25.
dinner only, Wed.–Sun.

5
Keep your eye on Sea Ranch Lodge, that weathered-wood showpiece of forward-thinking, mid-1960s California architecture sitting atop the windswept bluffs nine miles south of Gualala. It’s been acquired by the owners of Big Sur’s Post Ranch Inn, and though well tended over the decades, the place is ripe for a makeover. The transformation starts in the kitchen, now under the sure hand of chef John Cox, formerly of the luxe Hotel Hana Maui and Post Ranch Inn. Rooms start around $200 weekends, $150 weekdays, including breakfast. Don’t fret if it’s booked; you could also rent a three-bedroom house, complete with fireplace and hot tub. Check out the listings at Sea Ranch Escapes in the lobby of the lodge or on the web.
• Sea Ranch Lodge, 800-732-7262 or 707-785-2371, www.searanchlodge.com.
• Sea Ranch Escapes, 888-732-7262 or 707-785-2426, www.888searanch.com.