Serpentine
A mongrel neighborhood of light industry and historic houses, Dogpatch has a new breed of resident—modern loft dwellers—and a new restaurant to meet their needs. Anyone who’s dined in a converted-warehouse district will recognize the trappings: Concrete walls, moody makeout lighting, and ceilings as high as an airplane hangar’s set a familiar stage for casually dressed California cuisine. A burger ground from organic beef and draped with pickled purple onions. Roasted chicken with artichokes and fennel. You’ve seen this plot before, but chef Chris Kronner, of the smart, hip Slow Club, adds enough twists to hold your interest, from savory bread pudding spiked with nettles to earthy parsley-root soup laced with a lively green-garlic purée. Though the service sags on busy nights, Serpentine retains an upbeat spirit suited to its urban-chic surroundings. In gentrifying Dogpatch, diners won’t encounter an earth-shattering restaurant, but they will find themselves on solid ground. By Josh Sens
2495 3rd St. (at 22nd St.), S.F., 415-252-2000 serpentinesf.com

Franklin Square Wine Bar
The guys who brought you the lively scene at Luka’s Taproom & Lounge have opened something a bit more subdued across the street—the sort of place that will probably be overlooked by anyone who doesn’t live or work near downtown Oakland. But if you do, next time you find yourself on this half-bereft, half-booming stretch of Broadway, keep an eye out for a small, blue neon sign that reads simply, WINE BAR. Inside, a single row of tables and a long bar sit below a high ceiling and speakers that blast music at party levels, even when the party is elsewhere. The place certainly encourages revelry, though: Everything on the globetrotting single-page wine list is available by the bottle, carafe, glass, or half glass—perfect if you feel like exploring new lands or finding the right pairing for lunch or dinner. A charcuterie or cheese plate, a grilled tartine of artichoke and gruyère, or duck rillettes and fig jam make friendly companions; as do some of the more elaborate dishes, like sautéed chanterelles with cannellini and spinach. A tip to keep in mind: As wines, normally ranging $7–15 a glass, rotate off the list, the remainders are poured for $5. That’s a welcome sight for anyone who winds up their workday in these parts. By